🕷️ Enclosure Setup

📏Size:

Start small: 2–4 oz deli cup.

Provide vertical space for webbing and a small twig or pipe cleaner for a perch. Slings feel safer up high

🪟Ventilation:

Cross-ventilation is essential — at least two sides with small holes or mesh.

Avoid large gaps where a sling could escape.

🪴Substrate:

Thin layer of coco fiber or paper towel just to absorb moisture.

Add a few twigs, fake leaves, or bark for climbing and hiding.

💡Lighting & Temperature🌡️:

Ambient room light is fine (avoid direct sunlight).

Ideal temp: 65-75 °F

Never place directly on heat mats; keep consistent room warmth.

💧Humidity:

Lightly mist one side of the enclosure 3–4 times per week so droplets form — they’ll drink from those.

Let it dry out between mistings to prevent mold.

🍽️ Feeding

🪰Diet:

Flightless fruit flies (D. melanogaster for small slings; D. hydei as they grow).

Later, small crickets, mealworm segments, or blue bottle fly spikes.

🗓️Schedule:

Feed every day or every other day. Remove uneaten prey after 24 hrs.

Stop feeding when the spider refuses food — it’s likely in pre-molt.

🔄 Molting & Growth

Slings molt roughly every 2–4 weeks at first.

They’ll web up and stop eating for a few days before molting.

Keep humidity steady during this time; don’t disturb them.

After molting, wait until the sling emerges from the hammock before offering prey.

☠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

Too much moisture — mold and mites can kill slings fast.

Mist daily and feed often. Slings can dehydrate very quickly.

Overfeeding or leaving prey in during molts.

Poor ventilation or drafts

🕷️ Enclosure Setup

📏Size:

3 x 3 x 6 - 4 x 4 x 8 Arboreal Enclosure

Provide a hide, plenty of vertical space for climbing, items for enrichment such as bridges, climbing shelves, netting, etc. Have fun with it!

🪟Ventilation:

Cross-ventilation is essential — There should be ventilation on the sides and top of the enclosure to prevent stagnant air.

🪴Substrate:

A 50/50 mixture of creature soil and coco fiber is sufficient

Add a few twigs, fake leaves, or bark for climbing and hiding.

💡Lighting & Temperature🌡️:

Ambient room light is fine (avoid direct sunlight).

Ideal temp: 65-75 °F

Never place directly on heat mats; keep consistent room warmth.

💧Humidity:

Lightly mist one side of the enclosure daily so droplets form — they’ll drink from those.

Let it dry out between mistings to prevent mold.

🍽️ Feeding

🪰Diet:

Blue bottle fly larvae, mini mealworms, dub roaches, small crickets, and peanut beetle larvae all are sufficient options for feeding

All of these feeders are completely optional and should be chosen off of what you are most comfortable with and what your jumper is willing to eat.

🗓️Schedule:

Feed based off of abdomen size.

Once your spider's abdomen is the same width as its carapace they will usually take food if they are not getting ready to molt. Typical every 3-5 days.

Stop feeding when the spider refuses food — it’s likely in pre-molt.

🔄 Molting & Growth

Juvies molt roughly every 3–4 weeks depending on feeding, genetics and temperature.

They’ll web up and stop eating for a few days before molting.

Keep humidity steady during this time; don’t disturb them.

After molting, wait until your spider emerges from the hammock before offering prey.

☠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

Too much moisture — mold can grow and cause stagnant air, which could be deadly.

Mist daily but do NOT soak the enclosure.

Overfeeding can lead to problems such as mismolts, accelerated growth and in some rare cases, abdominal separation.

Poor ventilation can cause stagnant air which can be deadly for your spider and cause mold growth.

🕷️ Enclosure Setup

📏Size:

4 x 4 x 8 Arboreal Enclosure

Provide a hide, plenty of vertical space for climbing, items for enrichment such as bridges, climbing shelves, netting, etc. Have fun with it!

🪟Ventilation:

Cross-ventilation is essential — There should be ventilation on the sides and top of the enclosure to prevent stagnant air.

🪴Substrate:

A 50/50 mixture of creature soil and coco fiber is sufficient

Add a few twigs, fake leaves, or cork bark for climbing and hiding.

💡Lighting & Temperature🌡️:

Ambient room light is fine (avoid direct sunlight).

Ideal temp: 65-75 °F

Never place directly on heat mats; keep consistent room warmth.

💧Humidity:

Lightly mist one side of the enclosure daily so droplets form — they’ll drink from those.

Let it dry out between mistings to prevent mold.

🍽️ Feeding

🪰Diet:

Blue bottle fly larvae and adult flies (Jumper favorite), mini mealworms, dubia roaches, crickets are all sufficient options for feeders.

All of these feeders are completely optional and should be chosen off of what you are most comfortable with and what your jumper is willing to eat.

🗓️Schedule:

Feed based off of abdomen size.

Once your spider's abdomen is the same width as its carapace they will usually take food if they are not getting ready to molt. Typically every 5 days.

Stop feeding when the spider refuses food — it’s likely in pre-molt.

🔄 Molting & Growth

Sub-Adults molt roughly every 4-6 weeks depending on feeding, genetics and temperature.

They’ll web up and stop eating for a few days up to a few weeks before molting.

Keep humidity steady during this time; don’t disturb them.

After molting, wait until your spider emerges from the hammock before offering prey.

☠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

Too much moisture — mold can grow and cause stagnant air, which could be deadly.

Mist daily but do NOT soak the enclosure.

Overfeeding can lead to problems such as mismolts and in some rare cases, abdominal separation.

Poor ventilation can cause stagnant air which can be deadly for your spider and cause mold growth.

🕷️ Enclosure Setup

📏Size:

4 x 4 x 8 - 6 x 6 x 10 Arboreal Enclosure

Provide a hide, plenty of vertical space for climbing, items for enrichment such as bridges, climbing shelves, netting, etc. Have fun with it!

🪟Ventilation:

Cross-ventilation is essential — There should be ventilation on the sides and top of the enclosure to prevent stagnant air.

🪴Substrate:

A 50/50 mixture of creature soil and coco fiber is sufficient

Add a few twigs, fake leaves, or bark for climbing and hiding.

💡Lighting & Temperature🌡️:

Ambient room light is fine (avoid direct sunlight).

Ideal temp: 65-75 °F

Never place directly on heat mats; keep consistent room warmth.

💧Humidity:

Lightly mist one side of the enclosure daily so droplets form — they’ll drink from those.

Let it dry out between mistings to prevent mold.

🍽️ Feeding

🪰Diet:

Blue bottle fly larvae and adult flies, mealworms, dubia roaches, and crickets all are sufficient options for feeders.

All of these feeders are completely optional and should be chosen off of what you are most comfortable with and what your jumper is willing to eat.

🗓️Schedule:

Feed based off of abdomen size.

Once your spider's abdomen is the same width as its carapace they will usually take food if they are not getting ready to molt. Typical every 5-7 days.

🔄 Molting & Growth

Once your jumper reaches maturity they will not molt again.

☠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

Too much moisture — mold can grow and cause stagnant air, which could be deadly.

Mist daily but do NOT soak the enclosure.

Overfeeding can lead to problems such as injuries and in rare cases abdominal separation.

Poor ventilation can cause stagnant air which can be deadly for your spider and cause mold growth.

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