Choosing Your Spider:

•What species is best for a beginner?

Most jumping spiders make wonderful beginner pets, but I generally recommend Phidippus regius (Regal
Jumping Spiders). They’re curious, easy to care for, and one of the largest and most interactive species
available.

•Are jumping spiders venomous?

Yes, but so mildly that they’re considered harmless to healthy people. Their venom is designed for tiny insects
—not humans.

•Do they bite?

They can, but it’s extremely uncommon. Jumping spiders are naturally curious rather than defensive and
usually prefer to walk (or run) away instead of biting.

•Can I handle my jumping spider?

Absolutely—but only if your spider is comfortable with it. Some spiders enjoy exploring your hands, while
others prefer to be admired from their enclosure.

•How long do I wait before I can handle my jumper?

Give your spider at least 24–48 hours to settle into its new enclosure before attempting to handle it. Moving to
a new home is stressful, and giving them time to adjust helps them feel secure. Some spiders may be ready
sooner, while others need a little longer—and that’s perfectly normal. Let your spider set the pace, and never
force interaction if it seems uncomfortable.

•Can they recognize me?

While they don’t recognize people the way a dog or cat would, many jumping spiders learn that you’re not a
threat and often become comfortable interacting with their keeper.

Housing:

•What size enclosure does my spider need?

For juveniles, I generally prefer to house them in a 4x4x8 ARBOREAL enclosure. This is a good size for both
juveniles all the way to maturity. I personally prefer to rehouse my jumpers as minimally possible. Smaller
enclosures below my recommended size are suitable up until they are sub-adult as long as there is more
vertical space than horizontal, but a 4x4x8 - 6 x6 x10 would be suitable for a jumper sub-adult or mature.

•Is bioactive better than an artificial enclosure?

Not necessarily. Both can provide an excellent home when set up correctly. For most species, including Regal
Jumping Spiders, bioactive and artificial enclosures perform equally well. Bioactive setups become more
beneficial for species that require consistently higher humidity, such as Hyllus.

•Where should I keep my enclosure?

Keep your spider indoors in a room with stable temperatures. Avoid direct sunlight, heating vents, air
conditioners, and drafty windows. Never leave an enclosure inside a parked vehicle or anywhere temperatures
can rise rapidly.

•Can I keep more than one jumping spider together?

No. Jumping spiders are solitary animals and should always be housed individually. Keeping multiple spiders
together often results in injury or cannibalism.

•Do they need a hide?

Yes. Jumping spiders build silk hammocks where they sleep, rest, and molt. Providing safe places to anchor
their hammocks helps them feel secure.

•What decorations are safe?

Artificial plants, cork bark, branches, vines, and other spider-safe decorations work well. Avoid anything with
sticky residue, pesticides, sharp edges, or small gaps where your spider could become trapped.

Temperature & Humidity:

•Do I need a heat lamp or heat mat?

Usually not. Most homes stay within a comfortable temperature range for Regal Jumping Spiders.
Supplemental heat should only be used if your home is consistently too cold.

•How often should I mist?

Lightly mist one side of the enclosure once daily.. Avoid soaking the enclosure or leaving it constantly wet.

•Where should I place the enclosure?

Choose a location with indirect light and stable temperatures. Keep the enclosure away from direct sun,
windowsills, fireplaces, air vents, and heating or cooling units.

Feeding:

•What do jumping spiders eat?

Jumping spiders eat appropriately sized live insects such as fruit flies, bottle flies, roaches, mealworms, and
other feeder insects.

•How often should I feed them?

Feeding frequency depends on your spider’s age and abdomen size. Rather than feeding on a strict schedule,
monitor your spider’s abdomen and feed accordingly.

•How do I know if they’re hungry?

Once your spider’s abdomen is the same width as the carapace (head) they are ready for food. Avoid
overfeeding as this can lead to issues during molting and sometimes abdominal separation.

•My spider won’t eat. Should I be worried?

Not always. Jumping spiders often refuse food before a molt, after a large meal, or during periods of
adjustment. As long as your spider otherwise appears healthy, a short fast is usually normal.

•Can I leave prey in the enclosure?

It depends on the feeder. If the feeder you’re offering has mandibles (crickets and mealworms, for example)
You shouold NEVER leave it alone with your spider. If mealworms get lost in the substrate, leave out a fresh
slice of cucumber or carrot in the bottom of the enclosure. This will draw out the mealworm so you can find it
easily and remove it.

•Do they need a water dish?

Jumping spiders drink water droplets from misting. NEVER leave a water dish in a jumping spider enclosure
because they can drown. Arboreal cotton waterers are acceptable, but cotton should be changed regularly to
avoid mold.

Molting:

•How do I know my spider is getting ready to molt?

Common signs include refusing food, becoming less active, abdominal bloat, spending more time inside its
hammock, thickening or building an entirely new hammock, and developing a darker abdomen.

•My spider hasn’t moved in hours. Is it okay?

Probably! During premolt, jumping spiders often remain very still for long periods. This is completely normal.
Resist the urge to disturb them, they are saving all the energy they have for their big transformation!

•I watched my spider molt and it’s curled up and twitching. Is it dying?

No. Newly molted spiders often appear curled, weak, and twitchy while their new exoskeleton hardens. This is
a completely normal part of the molting process. Do not disturb them.

•When can I feed after a molt?

Wait until your spider has fully hardened before offering food. Once they leave the hammock they are usually
ready for a feeder.

•When can I handle my spider after a molt?

Wait until your spider has completely hardened and is moving normally again. Handling too soon can damage
their soft exoskeleton.

Behavior:

•Why does my spider stay at the top?

This is perfectly normal. Jumping spiders naturally prefer higher places where they build their hammocks.

•Why is my spider pacing the enclosure?

Occasional exploring is completely normal, especially after being introduced to a new enclosure. They’re simply
checking out their surroundings.

•Why does my spider suddenly seem less active?

Reduced activity can simply mean your spider is preparing to molt, adjusting to a new environment, or
becoming older. As long as everything else appears normal, there’s usually no cause for concern.

•Why did my spider make a hammock and never come out?

They’re likely resting, sleeping, or preparing to molt. Some spiders remain inside their hammock for
several days or even weeks before a molt. Be patient and avoid disturbing them.

Health & Safety:

•How do I know if my spider is dehydrated?

A noticeably shrunken or wrinkled abdomen may indicate dehydration. Offer fresh water droplets by
lightly misting the enclosure.

•Are candles, perfumes, essential oils, or cleaning products dangerous?

Yes. Airborne chemicals can be harmful to jumping spiders. Avoid using sprays, essential oil diffusers,
candles, or strong cleaning products near their enclosure.

•How often should I clean the enclosure?

Remove leftover food, old molts, and waste as needed. A deeper cleaning is only necessary occasionally
unless something spills or mold develops.

Shipping & Arrival:

•How are jumping spiders shipped safely?

Spiders are packed in secure deli cups with protective padding, insulated packaging, and a cooling or
heating pack as needed. They are shipped overnight to minimize travel time and stress.

•Why do you only ship FedEx Priority Overnight?

Shipping overnight reduces the amount of time your spider spends riding in delivery vehicles and sitting
outdoors, giving them the safest possible journey.

•What should I do when my spider arrives?

Bring your spider indoors immediately then move it into its enclosure. Give it a day or two to settle
before attempting to handle or feed it.

•How long should I let my spider settle before handling or feeding?

Give your spider at least 24–48 hours to adjust to its new environment before attempting to handle it. If
it appears stressed or is preparing to molt, allow additional time.